There's little appeal to the beaches surrounding Cartagena de Indias. Locals and visitors alike board first-class launches that take them to the turquoise waters and coral reefs of the 23-island Islas del Rosario archipelago, which is 45 minutes away. Isla Grande is one of the largest islands and has kept its peaceful and non-cluttered look. Some guests are day trippers; others dive, eat fish and relax on a grand scale for a few days. Nine hotels dot the island, from wooden cabins to two contemporary venues, such as CocoLiso Island Resort (the largest) and Hotel San Pedro de Majagua.
CocoLiso Island Resort
This hotel's front door is the Caribbean Sea, and its guests arrive at 9:30 a.m. on any one of three launches owned by the hotel. Day trippers can use the entire facility, which includes 35 hammocks under the palm trees; a swimming pool; the beach or simply pick a spot until the boat returns to Cartagena de Indias at 3:00 p.m. Lunch is served cafeteria-style, the employees own the ice cream stand and Colombian coffee is free. CocoLiso is the only island hotel to be awarded the government-sanctioned Icontech seal of approval. That implies water is filtered three times before ice cubes are made. The kitchen was practically rebuilt to keep out insects; the food is refrigerated throughout the cooking process and kitchen employees wear hairnets and gloves. The hotel's 20 rooms are junior suites ($250 per night) and are adequate since it's assumed a guest's focus is to be outside and not inside a room The day trip price is 70,000 pesos and that includes the boat, lunch and transport to an aquarium where that ticket price is extra. To book, contact gerenciaventas@cocolisoresort.com or visit the hotel's Web site.
Hotel San Pedro de Majagua
Sofitel, a large hotel chain, owns this hotel that is comprised of 17 thatched-roof bungalows, many of which face the Caribbean. They are large, air conditioned, have a mini-bar, straw-mat ceilings and beds are exceptionally hard. The hotel's private boats transport day trippers or overnight guests from Cartagena de Indias to Isla Grande. The accommodation is more laid-back than CocoLiso with a private beach and several levels of lounge chairs overlooking the ocean. Nearby is a mangrove area with a small dock beside a bioluminescent bay, perfect for a nighttime swim with the protozoans that create light when there's movement in the water. A PADI shop is onsite for diving enthusiasts. Internet wifi is available but spotty and costs approximately $6 per hour. The menu is decidedly for fish lovers (service is excruciatingly slow) and guests are usually couples. Room rates per night range from 280,000 to 580,000 pesos. To book, contact reservas@hotelmajagua.com.
Note: Since boats from Cartagena de Indias arrive at 9:30 a.m., there is the possibility rooms will not be ready until 1:00 p.m. Independent tour guides meet the boats and sell sunset cruises and rent bikes and canoes. It's possible to follow walking paths to a bird sanctuary and a small village. Strolling vendors are part of the island's landscape, selling jewelry, nautical memorabilia and trinkets. They are bothersome so avoid eye contact.
Cartagena de India Boutique Hotels
Back in Cartagena, don't miss a night in one of the city's delightful boutique hotels or mainland shopping.
Judith Glynn - I've written travel articles for years. See more and my novel about romance and travel at www.facebook.com/judglynn
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